Shooting black and white film with an infrared filter transforms the familiar world into an ethereal landscape, rendering foliage luminous, skies dramatic, and skin tones porcelain. Success hinges on understanding the extended light sensitivity of infrared film, precise metering techniques, choosing the right filter and film combination, and embracing a patient, experimental approach to achieve truly striking and otherworldly results.
The Allure of the Invisible: Mastering Infrared Film Photography
Infrared (IR) film photography allows us to capture light beyond the visible spectrum, revealing a world unseen by the naked eye. The resulting black and white images often possess a dreamlike quality, marked by stark contrasts, glowing vegetation, and a generally surreal aesthetic. Achieving compelling results requires careful consideration of several key factors. This guide will walk you through the entire process, ensuring you can capture stunning infrared images.
Understanding Infrared Light and Film
Infrared light lies beyond the red end of the visible spectrum. Unlike the colors we perceive, infrared light is heat-based, reflecting differently off various surfaces. This is why foliage appears bright white in infrared photographs; chlorophyll heavily reflects infrared radiation. Understanding this fundamental difference is crucial for anticipating how your subjects will render.
Infrared film is specifically sensitized to these longer wavelengths. Different film stocks exhibit varying sensitivities, ranging from near-infrared (NIR) to deeper into the infrared spectrum. Some films are entirely panchromatic with extended red sensitivity that can be used for infrared, while others are designed exclusively for infrared photography. The deeper the infrared sensitivity, the more dramatic the effect.
Choosing the Right Equipment
Selecting the appropriate equipment is paramount for successful infrared photography.
- Infrared Filter: This is the cornerstone of infrared photography. Filters block visible light, allowing only infrared light to reach the film. Common filter strengths are 720nm, 830nm, and 850nm. A 720nm filter blocks most visible light, offering a moderate infrared effect, while an 830nm or 850nm filter blocks nearly all visible light, producing a more extreme and striking image.
- Camera Body: While most film cameras can be used, some older models may have light leaks that are exacerbated by infrared light. A robust, light-tight camera body is essential. Cameras with internal light meters are generally fine, but bear in mind that they are reading visible light and will require compensation.
- Lens Considerations: Not all lenses are created equal when it comes to infrared photography. Some lenses exhibit “hot spots,” areas of decreased sharpness and contrast in the center of the image, caused by internal reflections of infrared light. Research lens compatibility before investing in a specific filter/lens combination. Experimentation is key. Older, single-coated lenses often perform better than modern, multi-coated lenses in infrared applications.
- Film: Choosing the right film is crucial. Popular options include Ilford SFX 200, Rollei Infrared 400, and Washi Film “W”. Ilford SFX 200 is a good starting point because it is panchromatic with extended red sensitivity and can even be used without an IR filter for more subtle results. True infrared films, like Rollei Infrared 400, require very careful loading and unloading to prevent light leaks.
- Tripod: Due to the slow shutter speeds often required with infrared filters, a sturdy tripod is essential to prevent camera shake and ensure sharp images.
Mastering Exposure and Metering
Accurate exposure is crucial in infrared photography, but it presents unique challenges.
- Through-the-Lens (TTL) Metering: While you can use your camera’s TTL meter, it’s important to understand that it is calibrated for visible light. You will need to compensate for the filter factor, which can range from +3 to +6 stops depending on the filter strength and film type.
- Handheld Metering: Using a handheld light meter with an infrared filter placed over the sensor can provide a more accurate reading. However, this method still requires experimentation and bracketing.
- Bracketing: Bracketing your shots is highly recommended, especially when you’re first starting out. Take several shots at different exposure settings to ensure you capture the desired result.
- Sunny 16 Rule: The Sunny 16 rule can be used as a starting point, but remember to adjust for the filter factor and the specific characteristics of infrared light.
Composition and Subject Matter
The surreal nature of infrared photography opens up new possibilities for creative composition.
- Landscapes: Landscapes are a natural fit for infrared photography, with foliage transforming into luminous white forms and skies becoming dramatic and textured.
- Architecture: Architectural subjects can take on a unique, almost ethereal quality in infrared, emphasizing lines and textures.
- Portraits: Portraits can be interesting, with skin tones appearing smooth and porcelain-like. However, be mindful of how infrared light renders clothing and accessories.
- Contrast is Key: Look for scenes with strong contrasts between light and shadow to maximize the dramatic effect of infrared photography.
Development and Printing
Developing infrared film is similar to developing standard black and white film, but there are a few considerations.
- Film Developer: Most standard black and white film developers work well with infrared film. Experiment with different developers to find one that suits your aesthetic preferences.
- Light Leaks: Be extra careful when loading and unloading film, as infrared film is more sensitive to light. Use a changing bag or a darkroom.
- Printing: Infrared negatives can be printed using traditional darkroom techniques. Experiment with different papers and toners to enhance the unique qualities of the image.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
1. Can I use any black and white film for infrared photography?
Not all black and white films are suitable for infrared photography. Panchromatic films with extended red sensitivity work best, or films specifically designed for infrared capture. Check the film’s datasheet for information on its spectral sensitivity.
2. What does “nm” stand for in relation to infrared filters?
“nm” stands for nanometer, a unit of measurement for the wavelength of light. A higher nanometer value (e.g., 850nm) indicates a filter that blocks more visible light and allows only deeper infrared wavelengths to pass through.
3. How do I prevent light leaks when using infrared film?
Light leaks are a common problem with infrared film. To minimize them, load and unload film in complete darkness using a changing bag or darkroom. Ensure your camera body is light-tight, and consider wrapping the film canister in black electrical tape for added protection.
4. Why does foliage appear white in infrared photos?
Foliage appears white in infrared photographs because chlorophyll, the pigment that gives plants their green color, strongly reflects infrared light. This reflection is captured by the infrared film and renders as a bright white tone in the final image.
5. Are digital cameras capable of capturing infrared images?
Yes, digital cameras can capture infrared images, but they typically have an infrared-blocking filter in front of the sensor. This filter can be removed (often requiring specialized modification) to enable infrared photography. Alternatively, some digital cameras are specifically designed for infrared photography.
6. How do I focus with an infrared filter on my lens?
Many older lenses have an infrared focusing mark (usually a red dot or line) near the distance scale. After focusing normally, adjust the focus ring to align the distance on the scale with the infrared mark. Modern lenses often lack this feature; in such cases, focus through the viewfinder before attaching the filter, or use live view with manual focus if your camera has it. Experimentation is key.
7. What are “hot spots” and how can I avoid them?
Hot spots are areas of reduced sharpness and contrast, typically in the center of the image, caused by internal reflections of infrared light within the lens. To avoid them, research lens compatibility, use older single-coated lenses, and stop down the aperture slightly.
8. How much exposure compensation should I use with an infrared filter?
The amount of exposure compensation required varies depending on the filter strength, film type, and lighting conditions. A good starting point is +3 to +5 stops, but bracketing is essential to determine the optimal exposure.
9. What are some good subjects to photograph in infrared?
Ideal subjects for infrared photography include landscapes with abundant foliage, architectural subjects with strong lines and textures, and portraits where you want a unique, ethereal look.
10. Can I use color infrared film with an infrared filter?
Yes, you can use color infrared film with an infrared filter, but the results will be different than with black and white infrared film. Color infrared film produces false-color images, where colors are shifted due to the film’s sensitivity to infrared light. The filter will further influence the color palette.
11. What are the differences between 720nm, 830nm, and 850nm infrared filters?
The nanometer value indicates the cutoff point for visible light. A 720nm filter allows some visible red light to pass through, resulting in a more subtle infrared effect. An 830nm or 850nm filter blocks nearly all visible light, producing a more extreme and dramatic infrared image.
12. How do I develop Rollei Infrared 400 film?
Rollei Infrared 400 film is known for its sensitivity and requires careful handling. Develop it in complete darkness with no pre-wash. Use a standard black and white developer, but reduce development time slightly compared to other films to avoid excessive grain. Consult the film’s datasheet for specific development recommendations.