Blowing out your travel trailer’s water lines is the most effective method for preventing costly freeze damage during winterization, removing residual water from the system to avoid cracking pipes and fittings. This process uses compressed air to force water out, providing superior protection compared to simply draining alone.
The Importance of Winterizing Your Travel Trailer
Leaving water in your travel trailer’s plumbing system during freezing temperatures is a recipe for disaster. As water freezes, it expands, exerting immense pressure on pipes, fittings, pumps, and even your water heater. This can lead to cracked pipes, burst fittings, and a ruined water heater, resulting in expensive repairs come spring. Winterizing by blowing out your water lines offers a proactive and reliable solution to avoid these issues. This preventative measure is particularly crucial for RV owners in regions experiencing prolonged sub-freezing temperatures.
Step-by-Step Guide to Blowing Out Your Water Lines
This procedure outlines how to effectively remove water using compressed air. Always consult your RV owner’s manual for specific recommendations.
1. Gather Your Supplies
You’ll need:
- Air compressor (capable of delivering 30-40 PSI; exceeding 40 PSI can damage your RV’s plumbing)
- Air compressor adapter (specifically designed for RV water systems – often called a “blow-out plug”)
- Wrench or pliers (for removing and attaching fittings)
- Non-toxic RV antifreeze (for traps and fixtures)
- Water heater bypass valve (if your RV is equipped)
- Screwdriver (for opening low-point drains)
- Bucket (for catching water)
2. Bypass Your Water Heater
This step is crucial to avoid filling your water heater with antifreeze (which is a waste of product) or damaging it with compressed air. Locate the bypass valve(s) near your water heater. Refer to your RV’s manual for specific instructions, as the location and operation of these valves can vary. Typically, you’ll need to turn the valves to reroute water around the water heater.
3. Drain the Water Heater
Open the drain plug at the bottom of the water heater and remove the anode rod (if present). Allow all the water to drain completely. Be aware that this water may be hot, so exercise caution. Replace the drain plug after draining is complete; DO NOT reinstall the anode rod at this time (we’ll address this later).
4. Drain All Water Tanks
Open all faucets and fixtures, including the shower, toilet, and outside shower. Locate and open the low-point drains (typically red or blue pipes extending from the undercarriage). Allow all the water to drain from the fresh water tank and the gray/black water holding tanks.
5. Connect the Air Compressor
Attach the blow-out plug to the city water inlet connection on the exterior of your RV. Connect the air compressor hose to the blow-out plug. Set the air compressor regulator to 30-40 PSI. It’s critical not to exceed this pressure to avoid damaging your plumbing.
6. Blow Out the Water Lines
Slowly introduce compressed air into the system. Start by opening the faucet furthest from the city water inlet. Allow air to flow through the faucet until only air comes out. Repeat this process for all faucets and fixtures, working your way closer to the city water inlet. Flush the toilet several times to clear the water from the tank. Don’t forget the outside shower if equipped.
7. Pour Antifreeze into Traps and Fixtures
After blowing out the lines, pour non-toxic RV antifreeze into each drain (sink, shower, toilet). This will protect the traps from freezing and cracking. Pour enough antifreeze to fill the trap, typically a cup or two.
8. Antifreeze the Toilet
Pour a generous amount of non-toxic RV antifreeze into the toilet bowl and flush it. This will protect the toilet’s valve and plumbing.
9. Final Steps
Disconnect the air compressor and blow-out plug. Consider leaving the faucets slightly open to relieve any pressure buildup. If you removed an anode rod, do not reinstall it now; store it inside to prevent corrosion during the winter. Cover the water heater drain plug opening with tape to prevent insects from entering. Close and seal all windows and doors to keep out pests and moisture.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Here are some common questions RV owners have about blowing out water lines:
FAQ 1: What happens if I don’t winterize my travel trailer?
Failing to winterize can lead to catastrophic damage from freezing water. Cracked pipes, burst fittings, damaged pumps, and ruined water heaters are all potential consequences, leading to costly repairs.
FAQ 2: Can I use regular antifreeze instead of RV antifreeze?
Absolutely not. Regular automotive antifreeze is highly toxic and can contaminate your water system, making it unsafe for drinking water. Always use non-toxic RV antifreeze.
FAQ 3: How much air pressure should I use?
The recommended air pressure is 30-40 PSI. Exceeding this pressure can damage your RV’s plumbing system. A lower pressure is preferable to a higher one.
FAQ 4: Where do I find the low-point drains?
Low-point drains are typically located underneath the travel trailer, near the water lines. They are usually red and blue pipes with caps or valves. Refer to your RV’s manual for the specific location.
FAQ 5: Do I need to drain the black and gray water tanks completely?
Yes, it’s essential to drain both the black and gray water tanks completely before winterizing. This prevents freezing and potential damage to the tanks and associated plumbing.
FAQ 6: Should I remove the water filter during winterization?
Yes, it’s recommended to remove the water filter and bypass the filter housing during winterization. This prevents the filter from freezing and potentially cracking the housing.
FAQ 7: How do I bypass the water heater if I can’t find the valves?
If you can’t locate or operate the water heater bypass valves, consult your RV’s manual. If you still can’t find them, you may need to consult with an RV technician. Bypassing the water heater is crucial.
FAQ 8: Can I use a leaf blower instead of an air compressor?
While some people have tried using a leaf blower, it’s generally not recommended. Leaf blowers typically don’t provide enough consistent pressure to effectively blow out the lines and can introduce unfiltered air into the system. An air compressor is the safer and more reliable option.
FAQ 9: How long should I blow out each water line?
Blow out each line until only air comes out and there is no more sputtering or residual water. This may take several minutes per line, depending on the length and complexity of the plumbing system.
FAQ 10: What if I still find water in the lines after blowing them out?
It’s normal to have some residual water in the lines, especially in low spots. The goal is to remove the majority of the water to minimize the risk of freezing. Adding RV antifreeze to the traps provides extra protection.
FAQ 11: Do I need to lubricate the toilet bowl seal before winter?
Yes, applying a silicone-based lubricant to the toilet bowl seal can help prevent it from drying out and cracking during the winter.
FAQ 12: When should I reinstall the anode rod in the water heater?
Reinstall the anode rod in the spring, after you’ve de-winterized your RV and are ready to use the water system again. Using a new anode rod each year is recommended for optimal water heater protection.
Conclusion: Protecting Your Investment
Blowing out your travel trailer’s water lines is a relatively simple process that can save you thousands of dollars in potential repairs. By following these steps and taking the necessary precautions, you can ensure your RV is protected from the damaging effects of freezing temperatures and enjoy worry-free camping for years to come. Remember, preventative maintenance is key to preserving the value and longevity of your RV. Taking the time to properly winterize each year is an investment in your future travels.