The short answer is no, you cannot reliably use 120 film in a 220 film back. While physically the film might fit, the camera’s film counter and potentially the take-up mechanism are designed specifically for the thickness and length of 220 film, leading to incorrect frame spacing, inaccurate metering, and potential damage to the film or camera.
Understanding 120 and 220 Film Formats
Before delving into the incompatibility, it’s crucial to understand the fundamental differences between 120 and 220 film. Both are medium format films, wider than the standard 35mm, providing larger negatives and superior image quality. However, their construction and intended use vary significantly.
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120 Film: This is the more common and widely available format. It features a paper backing that extends the entire length of the film, protecting it from light and providing a means for the camera to accurately count frames. The paper backing also adds to the overall thickness of the spool. Typically, you get 12 exposures on 6×6 cameras, 15 on 6×4.5 cameras, 10 on 6×7 cameras and 8 on 6×9 cameras.
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220 Film: Designed for photographers who require more shots per roll, 220 film lacks the paper backing for the entire length of the roll, only having it at the beginning and end. This allows for roughly twice the number of exposures compared to 120 film on the same size spool. 220 film is not readily available and is not typically produced anymore.
The presence (or absence) of this paper backing is the core reason why 120 film cannot be used in a 220 back.
Why the Incompatibility?
The issue stems from the camera’s film advance and frame counting mechanisms.
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Film Thickness and Advance: 220 film, without the continuous paper backing, is thinner than 120 film. A camera designed for 220 film will be calibrated to advance the film a specific amount based on this thinner profile. If you load 120 film, the camera might over-advance, leading to overlapping frames or uneven spacing.
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Film Counter Issues: Cameras with 220 backs typically rely on sensing the end of the paper backing to determine the film’s starting point and subsequent frame advancements. When using 120 film, with its full paper backing, the camera may not accurately detect the start of the film, resulting in an incorrect frame count. The camera may also just keep advancing and shooting as it never sees the end of the paper backing and believes there is more available film.
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Take-Up Spool Considerations: Some 220 backs have a specific design for the take-up spool that might not properly accommodate the thicker 120 film spool with its paper backing. Forcing the spool could damage the camera mechanism.
Ultimately, attempting to use 120 film in a 220 back is a recipe for unpredictable results and potential damage to your equipment.
Potential Workarounds (Not Recommended)
While strongly discouraged, some photographers have explored dubious workarounds. These are rarely successful and often lead to more problems.
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Manual Adjustment (Highly Risky): Some suggest manually adjusting the film advance after each exposure, relying on visual cues. This is extremely unreliable and will almost certainly result in inconsistent frame spacing.
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Modifying the Film Back (Not Advisable): Permanently altering the film back to accommodate the thickness of 120 film is not recommended. This will likely void any warranty and could compromise the structural integrity of the back.
It’s best to avoid these hacks entirely. The risk of ruining your film or damaging your camera far outweighs any perceived benefit.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
FAQ 1: Will my camera explode if I try to put 120 film in a 220 back?
No, your camera won’t explode! However, you will likely experience problems with film advance, frame spacing, and potentially damage the camera’s internal mechanisms. It’s best to stick to the film type the camera was designed for.
FAQ 2: What if my camera doesn’t have a specific 220 back, but a “universal” one?
Even “universal” backs often have internal mechanisms designed to differentiate between 120 and 220 film, particularly in the film counter. Refer to your camera’s manual for specific instructions and limitations regarding film types.
FAQ 3: Can I use a darkroom to manually advance the film in the 220 back?
While technically possible, manually advancing film in a darkroom is extremely impractical and prone to errors. The precision required for consistent frame spacing is nearly impossible to achieve reliably.
FAQ 4: What happens if I ignore the warnings and try it anyway?
You’ll likely end up with overlapping frames, uneven spacing, and potentially ruined film. You might also damage your camera’s film advance mechanism, requiring costly repairs.
FAQ 5: Are there any advantages to using 220 film over 120 film?
The primary advantage of 220 film is the ability to capture more exposures per roll. This can be beneficial in situations where frequent film changes are inconvenient, such as long shoots in remote locations. The film is very limited as it is no longer in production.
FAQ 6: Is 220 film still available?
Finding and using 220 film today is very limited as it is no longer in production. It’s much easier to stick with the more readily available 120 film.
FAQ 7: Can I modify a 120 back to accept 220 film?
While theoretically possible, modifying a 120 back to correctly handle 220 film would require significant mechanical alterations and a thorough understanding of the camera’s internal workings. It’s generally not a worthwhile endeavor.
FAQ 8: What if my 220 back has a switch to select between 120 and 220?
Some more advanced camera systems have backs that will adjust for both 120 and 220 films. You will be able to change the settings on the back that allow for both the different films. You will want to make sure that you make the adjustment and also make sure that the back is securely on the camera to make sure it is working correctly.
FAQ 9: What cameras were commonly designed to use 220 film?
Many professional medium format cameras from the late 20th century supported 220 film, including models from Hasselblad, Mamiya, Bronica, and Pentax.
FAQ 10: How can I tell if my camera back is designed for 120 or 220 film?
Consult your camera’s user manual. It will clearly specify the types of film supported and provide instructions for loading and operating each type. If you don’t have the manual, searching online for your camera model and “film type” should yield the answer.
FAQ 11: What are the best practices for storing 120 and 220 film (if I find any)?
Store both 120 and 220 film in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight and extreme temperature fluctuations. Refrigeration (not freezing) can extend the shelf life of unexposed film.
FAQ 12: If I’m just starting out with medium format, should I even bother with 220 film?
No. Given the scarcity of 220 film and the potential compatibility issues, it’s best to focus on mastering the use of 120 film. It’s widely available, easier to process, and offers ample creative possibilities.
Conclusion
While the temptation to “make it work” might be strong, attempting to use 120 film in a 220 back is ultimately a risky and ill-advised endeavor. Sticking to the film type specified for your camera back ensures reliable results, protects your equipment, and allows you to focus on the art of photography. Stick with 120 film.