Winterizing your trailer with air involves using compressed air to force water out of the plumbing system, preventing freezing and potential damage during cold weather. This method offers a relatively simple and efficient way to protect your RV’s pipes, faucets, and fixtures, but understanding the process and its nuances is critical for success.
Why Use Air to Winterize Your Trailer?
Winterizing with air, often alongside RV antifreeze, is a preventative measure against the destructive power of freezing water. When water freezes, it expands, potentially cracking pipes, damaging water heaters, and ruining appliances. Using compressed air effectively removes most of the water from the system, significantly reducing the risk of freeze damage. It’s a preferred method by many RV owners due to its relative speed and, when done correctly, its effectiveness. However, it’s crucial to understand the process thoroughly and supplement with antifreeze in vulnerable areas for comprehensive protection.
Step-by-Step Guide to Winterizing with Air
This guide assumes you are using a standard RV equipped with a low-point drain system and a city water connection. Always consult your RV’s owner’s manual for specific instructions related to your model.
Step 1: Preparation is Key
Before you begin, gather your supplies:
- Air compressor: Choose one with enough capacity (CFM – Cubic Feet per Minute) to adequately blow out your lines. A small pancake compressor might work for a very small trailer, but a larger one is generally recommended for larger RVs. Aim for at least 2.4 CFM at 40 PSI.
- Blow-out plug: This screws into your city water connection.
- RV antifreeze: Needed for P-traps, toilet, and possibly water heater bypass.
- Water heater bypass kit (if installed): Ensure the water heater is bypassed to prevent filling it with antifreeze unnecessarily.
- Wrench: For removing the water heater drain plug (if not bypassing).
- Screwdriver: For various tasks.
- Containers: For collecting drained water.
- Gloves and eye protection: Safety first!
Step 2: Drain the Water System
This is a crucial step. The more water you remove manually, the less reliant you are on the air compressor.
- Drain the water heater: Ensure it’s cool! Remove the drain plug (or open the drain valve). Allow all the water to drain completely. Consider using a bypass kit if available.
- Drain the fresh water tank: Locate the drain valve for your fresh water tank and open it. Let it drain completely.
- Open all faucets and showerheads (hot and cold): This allows air to circulate through the entire system.
- Locate and open low-point drain valves: These valves are typically located near the bottom of the RV, often near the plumbing lines. Open both the hot and cold low-point drains.
- Flush the toilet: Hold the flush valve open until the tank is empty.
Step 3: Blow Out the Water Lines with Air
Now, it’s time to use the air compressor.
- Connect the blow-out plug to the city water connection: Screw it in securely.
- Connect your air compressor to the blow-out plug: Ensure the connection is tight.
- Regulate the air compressor to a safe pressure: Do not exceed 40 PSI. Higher pressure can damage your RV’s plumbing. 30 PSI is often recommended.
- Blow out one fixture at a time: Starting with the faucet furthest from the city water connection, turn it on. Let the air run through the line until only air comes out. Repeat for all hot and cold faucets, including showers and outdoor showers. Flush the toilet until only air comes out.
- Repeat the process several times: This ensures that as much water as possible is removed. Change the order of the faucets each time to ensure all lines are thoroughly blown out.
- Disconnect the air compressor: Once you are satisfied that the lines are clear, disconnect the air compressor and blow-out plug.
Step 4: Add RV Antifreeze
While blowing out the lines removes most of the water, it’s essential to protect vulnerable areas with RV antifreeze. Never use automotive antifreeze! It is toxic and can contaminate your fresh water system.
- Pour RV antifreeze into all P-traps: This includes the sinks and shower drains.
- Pour RV antifreeze into the toilet bowl: Flush the toilet briefly to coat the seal and the waste tank.
- Consider adding RV antifreeze to the fresh water tank: This is optional, but recommended for added protection, especially if you couldn’t completely drain the tank. Consult your RV’s manual for the correct procedure.
- If you didn’t bypass the water heater: You must fill the water heater with RV antifreeze to protect it. This requires a significant amount of antifreeze. Bypassing is highly recommended.
Step 5: Final Steps
- Turn off the water pump: This prevents it from running dry and potentially damaging it.
- Leave all faucets open: This prevents pressure from building up in the lines if any residual water freezes.
- Remove batteries: Disconnect and remove the batteries, store them in a cool, dry place, and check their charge periodically.
- Inspect and seal any openings: Check for cracks or openings where rodents or insects could enter and seal them appropriately.
- Cover the tires: If the RV will be stored for an extended period, cover the tires to protect them from UV damage.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
FAQ 1: What PSI should I use when winterizing with air?
Never exceed 40 PSI. 30 PSI is often recommended as a safer pressure. Exceeding this limit can damage your RV’s plumbing system. Always check your RV’s manual for specific recommendations.
FAQ 2: Do I need to use antifreeze after blowing out the lines?
Yes! While blowing out the lines removes the majority of the water, it’s still crucial to add RV antifreeze to P-traps, the toilet, and potentially the fresh water tank and water heater (if not bypassed). This provides added protection against residual water freezing.
FAQ 3: Can I use automotive antifreeze in my RV’s plumbing system?
Absolutely not! Automotive antifreeze is toxic and can contaminate your fresh water system, making it unsafe for drinking. Only use RV antifreeze, which is specifically designed for potable water systems.
FAQ 4: How do I bypass my water heater?
Many RVs have a water heater bypass kit installed. This involves turning a few valves to redirect water around the water heater. If your RV doesn’t have a bypass kit, you might need to purchase and install one. Consult your RV’s manual or a qualified RV technician.
FAQ 5: What happens if I don’t winterize my trailer?
Failing to winterize can lead to costly damage, including burst pipes, cracked fittings, and a damaged water heater. The cost of repairing these damages far outweighs the cost and effort of winterizing.
FAQ 6: How do I winterize the black and gray water tanks?
Completely drain and flush both tanks. Add a small amount of RV antifreeze to each tank to protect the drain valves.
FAQ 7: Can I use a leaf blower instead of an air compressor?
While some people have tried using leaf blowers, it’s not recommended. Leaf blowers typically don’t generate enough consistent pressure and can introduce contaminants into the water system. An air compressor is the safer and more effective option.
FAQ 8: What if I have a washing machine or ice maker?
These appliances require special attention. Consult your appliance manuals for specific winterizing instructions. Generally, you’ll need to run RV antifreeze through them.
FAQ 9: How long does it take to winterize a trailer with air?
The process typically takes 1-3 hours, depending on the size and complexity of your RV’s plumbing system.
FAQ 10: Is it safe to leave my faucets open all winter?
Yes, it’s recommended. Leaving the faucets open prevents pressure from building up in the lines if any residual water freezes.
FAQ 11: Where can I find RV antifreeze?
RV antifreeze is readily available at RV supply stores, hardware stores, and online retailers.
FAQ 12: Should I dehumidify the RV during the winter?
While not directly related to the plumbing system, using a dehumidifier or moisture absorbers can help prevent mold and mildew growth inside the RV during the winter months, especially in areas with high humidity.
Conclusion
Winterizing your trailer with air is a crucial step to protecting your investment from the damaging effects of freezing temperatures. By following these steps and addressing the frequently asked questions, you can ensure your RV is ready for winter storage and avoid costly repairs in the spring. Remember, consulting your RV’s owner’s manual is always the best source for specific instructions related to your model. A little preparation now can save you a lot of headaches (and money) later.