Blowing out your RV’s water lines is the single most effective way to prevent freezing damage during winter storage, preventing costly repairs and ensuring a smooth start to your next adventure. This process involves using compressed air to force remaining water out of the pipes, faucets, and fixtures, safeguarding against bursts caused by expanding ice.
Why Blow Out Your Water Lines? The Cost of Neglect
The plumbing system in your travel trailer is vulnerable to freezing temperatures. When water freezes, it expands with significant force. This expansion can crack pipes, damage fixtures like faucets and showerheads, and even rupture your water heater. Repairing this damage can be incredibly expensive, costing hundreds or even thousands of dollars. Moreover, undetected leaks can lead to mold growth and structural issues. Blowing out your water lines, combined with proper winterization techniques, is a simple and affordable preventative measure that can save you a lot of time, money, and frustration in the long run.
Preparing for the Blowout: Gathering Your Tools and Supplies
Before you begin, gather all the necessary tools and supplies. This will streamline the process and prevent unnecessary interruptions. Here’s what you’ll need:
- Air compressor: A small portable air compressor with a regulator is ideal. Aim for one that can deliver at least 30 PSI.
- Air compressor adapter: This fitting connects your air compressor hose to the water inlet of your travel trailer. Specific adapters are made for RV water systems.
- Wrench (adjustable): Used to tighten and loosen hose connections.
- Screwdriver (Phillips and flathead): May be needed to access certain drain plugs.
- Non-toxic RV antifreeze: (Optional, but recommended) For pouring into traps and toilet bowl.
- Towels/rags: To clean up any spills.
The Step-by-Step Guide to Blowing Out Your Water Lines
This process should take approximately 1-2 hours, depending on the size and complexity of your RV’s plumbing system.
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Drain Your Water Heater: Turn off the water heater and allow the water inside to cool completely. Locate the drain plug (usually a small screw or plug on the bottom of the heater) and carefully remove it. Allow all the water to drain out. Replace the drain plug when finished. Important: Never drain the water heater while it is hot or pressurized.
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Drain Your Freshwater Tank: Open the drain valve for your freshwater tank and allow it to empty completely. Most RVs have a low-point drain valve for this purpose.
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Bypass Your Water Heater: This step prevents antifreeze from entering your water heater tank. Locate the water heater bypass valve(s) and adjust them to the bypass position. The exact configuration varies depending on your RV model. Consult your RV’s owner’s manual for specific instructions.
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Connect Your Air Compressor: Attach the air compressor adapter to the water inlet of your travel trailer. Connect the air compressor hose to the adapter.
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Set the Air Compressor Regulator: This is crucial! Set the air compressor regulator to a maximum of 30 PSI. Exceeding this pressure can damage your plumbing.
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Open Faucets and Fixtures: Starting with the faucet furthest from the water inlet, open both the hot and cold water taps. This allows the compressed air to push the water out. Do this for all faucets, including the kitchen sink, bathroom sink, and shower. Don’t forget the outside shower, if you have one.
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Flush the Toilet: Depress the toilet flush pedal or lever to allow air to clear the toilet valve and plumbing.
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Repeat the Process: Cycle through all the faucets and fixtures several times, allowing air to flow for a few minutes each time. This ensures that as much water as possible is removed.
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Pour Antifreeze into Drains: Pour a cup or two of non-toxic RV antifreeze into each drain (sink, shower) and the toilet bowl. This protects the P-traps from freezing and cracking.
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Disconnect and Store: Disconnect the air compressor and adapter. Close all faucets and fixtures. Store all your winterizing supplies in a safe place.
FAQs: Troubleshooting and Expanding Your Knowledge
Here are some frequently asked questions to help you further understand the process of blowing out your travel trailer’s water lines:
H3 FAQ 1: What PSI should I set my air compressor to when blowing out water lines?
Answer: The recommended pressure is 30 PSI. Exceeding this pressure can damage your plumbing, especially the delicate plastic fittings. Always err on the side of caution.
H3 FAQ 2: What happens if I don’t blow out my water lines before winter?
Answer: If you don’t blow out your water lines, the residual water can freeze and expand, causing pipes to crack, fittings to break, and fixtures to be damaged. This can lead to costly repairs and significant inconvenience.
H3 FAQ 3: Can I use regular antifreeze instead of RV antifreeze?
Answer: No. Never use automotive antifreeze (ethylene glycol) in your RV’s plumbing system. It is highly toxic and can contaminate your water supply. Only use non-toxic RV antifreeze (propylene glycol).
H3 FAQ 4: How do I know if I’ve successfully blown out all the water?
Answer: You’ll know you’ve blown out most of the water when you hear mostly air coming out of the faucets and fixtures. However, some residual moisture is normal. The goal is to remove enough water to prevent freezing and expansion damage.
H3 FAQ 5: What if I don’t have an air compressor? Are there alternative methods?
Answer: While an air compressor is the most effective method, you can use a hand pump designed for RVs. These pumps manually pressurize the water system. However, they are less efficient and may require more effort. Complete draining and antifreeze are even more critical if using a hand pump.
H3 FAQ 6: How do I bypass my water heater?
Answer: The bypass method varies depending on your RV model. Most RVs have a valve system located near the water heater. Typically, you’ll need to turn one or more valves to redirect the water flow around the water heater tank. Consult your RV’s owner’s manual for specific instructions.
H3 FAQ 7: Do I need to remove the water filter before blowing out the lines?
Answer: Yes. Remove the water filter cartridge and bypass the filter housing. If you don’t, the compressed air can damage the filter cartridge. Some people like to put a small amount of RV antifreeze in the housing before reattaching it.
H3 FAQ 8: What if my RV has a water pump? Do I need to do anything with it?
Answer: Turn off the water pump. After blowing out the lines, briefly run the water pump to ensure any remaining water is expelled from it. You can also pour a small amount of RV antifreeze into the pump inlet to protect it.
H3 FAQ 9: Do I need to worry about the black and gray water tanks?
Answer: Yes. Ensure your black and gray water tanks are completely emptied and thoroughly rinsed. Add a small amount of RV antifreeze to the tanks to prevent any residual water from freezing in the drain valves.
H3 FAQ 10: What if I have an ice maker or washing machine in my RV?
Answer: These appliances require special attention. Disconnect the water lines to the ice maker and washing machine and blow them out separately. You may need to consult the appliance owner’s manuals for specific winterization instructions.
H3 FAQ 11: How often should I blow out my water lines?
Answer: You should blow out your water lines every time you plan to store your RV in freezing temperatures for an extended period. This is typically done at the end of the camping season.
H3 FAQ 12: Can I hire someone to blow out my water lines?
Answer: Yes, many RV service centers and mobile RV technicians offer winterization services, including blowing out water lines. If you’re not comfortable doing it yourself, hiring a professional is a good option.
Protecting Your Investment: Going Beyond the Blowout
While blowing out your water lines is a critical step, it’s not the only measure you should take to winterize your travel trailer. Consider these additional tips:
- Insulate exposed pipes: Wrap exposed pipes with pipe insulation to provide extra protection against freezing.
- Cover vents and openings: Seal any vents or openings that could allow cold air to enter the RV.
- Remove batteries: Disconnect and remove batteries to prevent them from freezing and losing their charge.
- Store food and perishables: Remove all food and perishable items from the RV to prevent mold and pest infestations.
- Park in a sheltered location: If possible, park your RV in a sheltered location, such as a garage or under a carport, to provide additional protection from the elements.
By following these steps and taking the necessary precautions, you can ensure that your travel trailer is properly winterized and ready for your next adventure. Enjoy the peace of mind knowing that you’ve protected your investment from the damaging effects of freezing temperatures.