Successfully winterizing your travel trailer with compressed air involves systematically removing water from the plumbing system to prevent freeze damage. This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step approach, ensuring your RV is protected throughout the cold months, ready for adventure when spring arrives.
Understanding the Importance of Winterizing
Failing to properly winterize your travel trailer can lead to catastrophic and costly damage. Water expands when it freezes, potentially cracking pipes, bursting fittings, and damaging appliances like water heaters and toilets. Utilizing compressed air is a reliable and efficient method for water removal, although it’s crucial to execute the process correctly.
Step-by-Step Guide to Winterizing with Compressed Air
This method outlines a practical, reliable way to prepare your RV for freezing temperatures using compressed air.
1. Gather Your Supplies
Before you begin, ensure you have all the necessary materials:
- Air compressor: A small portable compressor is generally sufficient, ideally capable of delivering 30-50 PSI.
- Air compressor adapter: This connects the air compressor to your RV’s city water inlet.
- Non-toxic RV antifreeze: This is crucial for protecting drains and traps, as well as the toilet.
- Water heater bypass kit (if applicable): This isolates the water heater, preventing antifreeze from unnecessarily filling it.
- Wrench: For removing and reinstalling drain plugs.
- Screwdriver: For various tasks, such as opening low point drains.
- Bucket: For catching water.
- Plumber’s tape: For ensuring airtight connections.
2. Drain All Water Tanks
Completely drain both the fresh water tank and the gray/black water holding tanks. Consult your RV’s owner’s manual for the location of drain valves and the proper procedures for draining.
3. Bypass the Water Heater
If your RV has a water heater bypass kit, use it to isolate the water heater. This will prevent you from having to fill the entire tank with antifreeze. If you don’t have a bypass kit, consider installing one – it will save you money and time in the future. Regardless, drain the water heater by removing the drain plug or anode rod. Leave the plug removed for complete drainage.
4. Drain the Water Lines
This is where the compressed air comes into play. Connect the air compressor adapter to the city water inlet. Set the air compressor regulator to a pressure of no more than 40 PSI. Pressurize the water lines and then systematically open each faucet, both hot and cold, one at a time. Start with the faucet closest to the city water inlet and work your way to the farthest. Don’t forget the outside shower, if applicable. Flush the toilet several times. Let the air run through each faucet until only air comes out.
5. Protect the Drains with Antifreeze
Pour RV antifreeze into each drain (shower, sinks) and toilet. The amount needed will vary, but a cup or two in each drain should suffice to protect the P-traps from freezing. Flush the toilet with antifreeze to coat the bowl and prevent the seals from drying out.
6. Protect the Water Pump
Disconnect the inlet and outlet lines from the water pump. Refer to your owner’s manual. Pour RV antifreeze into the inlet line and briefly run the pump until antifreeze comes out of the outlet line. Then, turn off the pump. This coats the pump’s internal components and protects them from freezing.
7. Close All Faucets and Drains
Ensure all faucets are closed and drain plugs are reinstalled after completing the antifreeze application. Leave all drain valves open to ensure any residual water can escape if it freezes.
8. Add Antifreeze to Holding Tanks (Optional)
While not strictly necessary when using compressed air, adding a gallon or two of RV antifreeze to the black and gray water holding tanks can provide extra protection and help prevent odors.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Here are some frequently asked questions about winterizing a travel trailer with compressed air.
FAQ 1: Can I use regular automotive antifreeze?
No! Never use automotive antifreeze in your RV’s plumbing system. It is highly toxic and can contaminate your water lines. Always use non-toxic RV antifreeze, which is specifically formulated for potable water systems.
FAQ 2: What PSI should I set my air compressor to?
It is crucial to regulate your air compressor to no more than 40 PSI. Exceeding this pressure can damage your RV’s plumbing system.
FAQ 3: How do I know if I have a water heater bypass kit?
A water heater bypass kit typically consists of three valves near the water heater. One valve allows water to flow into the tank, one allows water to flow out, and the bypass valve connects the cold water inlet directly to the hot water outlet, bypassing the tank entirely. If you’re unsure, consult your RV’s owner’s manual or a qualified RV technician.
FAQ 4: Can I skip the antifreeze step if I use compressed air?
While compressed air removes most of the water, it’s impossible to remove all of it. Antifreeze in the drains and P-traps provides crucial protection against the small amount of remaining water freezing and causing damage. It also lubricates seals preventing them from drying and cracking. Never skip the antifreeze step.
FAQ 5: What if my RV doesn’t have a city water inlet?
Most RVs have a city water inlet. If yours doesn’t, you’ll need to adapt the air compressor hose to connect directly to the water pump inlet. This may require additional fittings.
FAQ 6: How do I sanitize the water system in the spring?
After winterizing, it’s essential to sanitize your water system in the spring. Mix 1/4 cup of household bleach per 15 gallons of water in your fresh water tank. Run the bleached water through all the faucets until you smell bleach. Let it sit for several hours, then drain and flush the system with fresh water until the bleach smell is gone.
FAQ 7: What if I can’t get all the water out of the lines with compressed air?
If you are struggling to get water out of the lines, try cycling the hot and cold water lines several times while applying compressed air. Check for any low points in the lines where water might be trapped. Using an RV antifreeze hand pump to push antifreeze through the lines will force out any remaining pockets of water.
FAQ 8: How often should I winterize my travel trailer?
You should winterize your travel trailer any time it’s going to be exposed to freezing temperatures for an extended period. Even short freezes can cause damage if water is present in the plumbing.
FAQ 9: What should I do with my ice maker and washing machine (if equipped)?
If your RV has an ice maker, disconnect the water line and drain it completely. For a washing machine, consult the owner’s manual for specific winterizing instructions. Typically, you’ll need to run antifreeze through the washer’s cycles.
FAQ 10: Where can I purchase RV antifreeze and other winterizing supplies?
RV antifreeze and other winterizing supplies can be found at most RV dealerships, camping supply stores, and online retailers. Be sure to purchase the correct type of RV antifreeze (non-toxic) and any necessary adapters for your specific RV.
FAQ 11: Should I also cover my travel trailer for the winter?
While not directly related to plumbing, covering your travel trailer can protect it from the elements, such as snow, rain, and UV damage. Be sure to use a breathable RV cover specifically designed for this purpose.
FAQ 12: What if I’m not comfortable winterizing my RV myself?
If you’re not comfortable winterizing your RV yourself, it’s best to take it to a qualified RV technician. They have the experience and equipment to ensure your RV is properly protected. They can also perform a complete inspection of your RV and identify any potential issues. Don’t risk costly repairs – seek professional help if needed.
By following these steps and addressing these FAQs, you can confidently winterize your travel trailer with compressed air, ensuring it’s protected from freezing temperatures and ready for your next adventure. Proper winterization is an investment in the longevity and enjoyment of your RV.