Typically, you’ll need between 2 and 3 gallons of RV antifreeze to properly winterize a travel trailer, depending on its size and plumbing system complexity. A smaller travel trailer with a simple layout might only require 2 gallons, while a larger trailer with multiple bathrooms and appliances might necessitate 3 gallons or slightly more.
Understanding the Importance of Winterizing
Winterizing your travel trailer is crucial for preventing costly damage caused by freezing temperatures. When water freezes, it expands, potentially cracking pipes, fittings, and even appliances. RV antifreeze, specifically formulated for plumbing systems, is non-toxic and safe for use in potable water lines. It lowers the freezing point of the water within the pipes, preventing them from bursting during cold weather. Neglecting to winterize can lead to significant repairs in the spring, easily costing hundreds or even thousands of dollars.
Determining Your Antifreeze Needs: A Step-by-Step Approach
Estimating the correct amount of RV antifreeze involves understanding your travel trailer’s plumbing layout. While the 2-3 gallon range is a good starting point, a more precise calculation can save you money and ensure thorough protection. Here’s how to approach it:
1. Knowing Your Trailer’s Plumbing System
The size and configuration of your travel trailer’s plumbing system directly impact the amount of antifreeze required. Larger trailers with more fixtures (sinks, toilets, showers) and longer pipe runs will naturally need more antifreeze. Refer to your owner’s manual for any information regarding the approximate volume of your water lines. If unavailable, a visual inspection and educated guess based on the size and complexity of your trailer is necessary.
2. Draining the Water System Thoroughly
Before adding antifreeze, completely drain all water from your system. This includes:
- Draining the fresh water tank: Locate and open the drain valve, usually found underneath the trailer.
- Draining the water heater: Turn off the water heater (both gas and electric) and allow it to cool completely. Then, open the drain plug and pressure relief valve.
- Draining all water lines: Open all faucets (hot and cold) and flush the toilet until no more water comes out.
- Bypassing the water heater: This is a critical step. Most water heaters have a bypass system. Activate it to prevent filling the entire water heater tank with antifreeze (which is unnecessary and wasteful).
3. Using a Water Pump Converter Kit or Air Compressor
- Water Pump Converter Kit: This allows you to pump the antifreeze directly through the water lines using your trailer’s existing water pump. This is the most common and recommended method.
- Air Compressor: Some RVers use an air compressor to blow out the water lines. While effective, this method requires caution. Excessive air pressure can damage pipes. Set the compressor to a low PSI (around 30-40 PSI) and blow out each line individually until no more water emerges. After blowing out the lines, you still need to add antifreeze to the P-traps (under sinks) and toilet bowl.
4. Introducing Antifreeze into the System
Using your chosen method (water pump converter kit or manual pouring), introduce the RV antifreeze into the system. Start with the faucet furthest from the water pump and work your way closer. Open each faucet (both hot and cold) until you see a consistent pink flow of antifreeze. Repeat this process for the toilet, showers, and any other water fixtures.
5. Don’t Forget the P-Traps and Drain Lines
Pour antifreeze into the P-traps under each sink and shower to prevent them from freezing and cracking. Also, pour some antifreeze into the toilet bowl.
Winterizing Without a Water Pump Converter Kit
While a water pump converter kit is highly recommended, it’s possible to winterize without one, although it’s more labor-intensive. This involves manually pouring antifreeze into each fixture’s water lines. Disconnect the water line beneath each fixture and carefully pour in the antifreeze, reconnecting the line afterward. This method is less efficient and requires more antifreeze. It also doesn’t fully protect the water pump itself.
FAQs: Deepening Your Understanding of Travel Trailer Winterization
Here are some frequently asked questions to further enhance your understanding of winterizing your travel trailer:
FAQ 1: What type of antifreeze should I use?
Always use RV antifreeze, specifically formulated for potable water systems. This type is non-toxic and safe for consumption (although you shouldn’t drink it!). Never use automotive antifreeze, as it is highly toxic and can contaminate your water system. Look for antifreeze that is clearly labeled as “RV Antifreeze” or “Potable Water Antifreeze.”
FAQ 2: How do I bypass my water heater?
Locate the water heater bypass valve(s). The configuration varies depending on the model. Typically, there are two or three valves. The goal is to isolate the water heater from the main water lines so that antifreeze doesn’t fill the entire tank. Refer to your owner’s manual for specific instructions for your water heater model. Bypassing is crucial to save a significant amount of antifreeze.
FAQ 3: Is it safe to use an air compressor to blow out the lines?
Yes, but with caution. Use a low PSI (30-40 PSI maximum) and ensure the air compressor is free of moisture. Moisture can freeze in the lines and cause damage. Blowing out the lines is a helpful step, but it doesn’t replace the need for antifreeze.
FAQ 4: What if I still see some water coming out after adding antifreeze?
This is normal. It takes time for the antifreeze to completely displace all the water in the lines. Continue running each fixture until you see a consistent pink flow of antifreeze.
FAQ 5: Can I reuse RV antifreeze?
While technically possible, it’s not recommended. RV antifreeze can become diluted or contaminated over time. It’s best to use fresh antifreeze each year to ensure optimal protection.
FAQ 6: How long does RV antifreeze last?
Unopened RV antifreeze has a long shelf life, typically several years. However, once opened, it’s best to use it within the same season.
FAQ 7: What about the washing machine and ice maker?
If your travel trailer has a washing machine or ice maker, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for winterizing these appliances. They often require specific procedures and may need additional antifreeze.
FAQ 8: Should I add antifreeze to the gray and black water tanks?
No. You do not add antifreeze to the gray and black water tanks. Simply drain them completely and rinse them thoroughly. Adding a small amount of RV antifreeze to the P-traps under the sink and shower drains is sufficient to prevent freezing in those areas.
FAQ 9: What happens if I don’t use enough antifreeze?
If you don’t use enough antifreeze, parts of your plumbing system may not be adequately protected, increasing the risk of freezing and damage. It’s better to err on the side of using slightly more antifreeze than not enough.
FAQ 10: Is it necessary to remove the water filter?
Yes. Remove the water filter cartridge before winterizing. The filter housing can crack if water freezes inside it. Some RVers store the filter cartridge in the refrigerator to keep it from drying out, while others replace it in the spring.
FAQ 11: How do I de-winterize in the spring?
First, drain the RV antifreeze from the system. Then, flush the water lines thoroughly with fresh water until all traces of antifreeze are gone. Sanitize the fresh water tank and lines with a bleach solution (follow manufacturer’s instructions for your tank size).
FAQ 12: Can I leave my travel trailer plugged into shore power during the winter?
While plugging into shore power can help maintain the battery, it’s essential to still properly winterize the plumbing system. Plugging in does not prevent pipes from freezing if they contain water. Also, be sure to check your battery’s water level periodically, as charging can cause it to evaporate.